The Corniche or coastal road between Tossa and San Feliu is one of my favourite stretches of coastline. But the road is extremely winding, with only one lane in each direction. Once out of Tossa it climbs steeply and for the next 22km runs high above the red cliffs, twisting through pine and cork oak trees, with sudden views of jutting headlands and small calas. Here and there the road swoops down to circle an inlet, and you will see abrupt turn-offs that lead to little calas that you can drive or walk down to, some with restaurants or a chiringuito. Carparks are extremely expensive. Seven km into the drive, just after passing the cala de Salions, there’s a left turn to the Sanctuary of Sant Grau, which twists 5km uphill, offering excellent views of the coast and the curious rock formation called La Roca del Rei. In 1908 the journalist Ferrán Agulló, inspired by the view from here, was the first to use the term Costa Brava, meaning rugged, savage, wild coast or shore.
This article was written by Francis Barrett. See also Francis' excellent guide to Ireland irelandbyways.com
Information about the Ampurdan
Ampurdan main page
Information about the Costa Brava
Accommodation in the Ampurdan and the Costa Brava